Cheers, Mauro! (...as we say in London) To achieve this sculptured look, heavy Irish Linens are amazingly malleable and satisfying to work with. Most people, I suppose, associate linen with the 'softly-tailored' treatment. But I now look forward to seeing how the inevitable 'crumpling' will contrast with this more structured and dramatic silhouette. Regards, Davide
Hi Davide. I came across your blog a while ago, and I'm just so amazed by the quality and execution of every single piece I've seen here. the shoulders and rope sleeve and jus too awesome,especially knowing it's linen! of course the cut is divine too. I wish I could just steal your brain. Cheers, Yen
Dear Yen, Thanks for your kind words. I love cutting and making but trust me, every suit's a nightmare and mostly I haven't a clue what I'm doing... I rely heavily on 'the force', as they say in Star Wars! As for my brain... Ha, be careful, in there is plenty you wouldn't want to know! All the best, Davide
I've discovered your blog by seeing a link in The Cutter and Tailor forum.
I have to say, that you are tailoring exactly the way I love it. (sleevehead, contrast and beautiful lining and also the hole line of your clothes. Thumps up!
Kind Basti, Glad you appreciate it. I'm just trying to make clothes with distinctive character, whilst always respectful of the past, that have strong elements to make them relevant now! Regards, Davide
Hi Jason, This blazer was made for a man with about a 39" chest and 33" waist. (Does that make him a size 12?) Joking apart, he has very broad shoulders and strong biceps for his frame, so the cut of this coat works on two levels: Firstly, purely on a style level, the sculpted shoulders and full sleeve-head are a bit of an elegant 'tour-de-force' attempted by only the brave (and to make sure this coat resembles nothing else in his or anybody else's wardrobe) Secondly, the result of this actually helps give the impression of narrower shoulders and the fuller upper-sleeve disguises the 'bulging' biceps! It's a silhouette I love and hope to continue to develop it in the same way I have tried to do with the more earthy 'curved-seams'... The two looks are at least distinctive. Best wishes, Davide
Hi Davide, great looking jacket. What is your definition of this type of shoulder? Ive heard being called Pagoda, Pitched... (Im sure theres a lot more). How do you get such a strong rope of the sleeve head? Im guessing you have to make your own sleeve head wadding and cut extra fullness in the crown, and it has to be sewn in by hand. thanks
Hi Brendan, I do cut the sleeve purposefully to create that raised/roped sleeve head shape, but only need to use the normal sleeve head roll with the canvas strip on the bias inside. On some occasions it might be necessary, depending on the type of cloth, to add an additional piece of soft canvas on the bias to the front and back (not the top) if I feel it needs it. I don't have a name for the shape of the shoulder I try to create, perhaps I should, it might help make describing it a lot easier: The idea is to have a close natural shape from the neck to the centre of the shoulder, then to subtly lift the ends to give a sharper finish, which is accentuated by the roped sleeve head. I like the look of using the contrast between the soft and the structured to create something distinctive. From a fitting point of view, I think it helps control the drape at the back, whilst helping to focus the prominence of the shoulder forward. This eliminates tightness across the top of the shoulder (by which I mean it follows the natural curvature of the shoulder leading forward and up to the end of the shoulder bone) so it should in theory, improve comfort and movement too. Who knows...?
Hi David,
ReplyDeleteThis is not only jacket , this is amazing sculpture
in italian it say " BRAVISSIMO "
Cheers, Mauro! (...as we say in London)
ReplyDeleteTo achieve this sculptured look, heavy Irish Linens are amazingly malleable and satisfying to work with. Most people, I suppose, associate linen with the 'softly-tailored' treatment. But I now look forward to seeing how the inevitable 'crumpling' will contrast with this more structured and dramatic silhouette.
Regards, Davide
Hi Davide.
ReplyDeleteI came across your blog a while ago, and I'm just so amazed by the quality and execution of every single piece I've seen here. the shoulders and rope sleeve and jus too awesome,especially knowing it's linen! of course the cut is divine too. I wish I could just steal your brain.
Cheers, Yen
Dear Yen,
ReplyDeleteThanks for your kind words. I love cutting and making but trust me, every suit's a nightmare and mostly I haven't a clue what I'm doing... I rely heavily on 'the force', as they say in Star Wars!
As for my brain... Ha, be careful, in there is plenty you wouldn't want to know!
All the best, Davide
Dear David!
ReplyDeleteI've discovered your blog by seeing a link in The Cutter and Tailor forum.
I have to say, that you are tailoring exactly the way I love it. (sleevehead, contrast and beautiful lining and also the hole line of your clothes. Thumps up!
Hope to seeing more of your work!
All the best,
Basti
i must ask : what size is this garment and is it for a male or female? those are the most beautifully constructed shoulders i have ever seen.
ReplyDeleteKind Basti,
ReplyDeleteGlad you appreciate it. I'm just trying to make clothes with distinctive character, whilst always respectful of the past, that have strong elements to make them relevant now!
Regards,
Davide
Hi Jason,
ReplyDeleteThis blazer was made for a man with about a 39" chest and 33" waist. (Does that make him a size 12?)
Joking apart, he has very broad shoulders and strong biceps for his frame, so the cut of this coat works on two levels:
Firstly, purely on a style level, the sculpted shoulders and full sleeve-head are a bit of an elegant 'tour-de-force' attempted by only the brave (and to make sure this coat resembles nothing else in his or anybody else's wardrobe)
Secondly, the result of this actually helps give the impression of narrower shoulders and the fuller upper-sleeve disguises the 'bulging' biceps! It's a silhouette I love and hope to continue to develop it in the same way I have tried to do with the more earthy 'curved-seams'... The two looks are at least distinctive.
Best wishes,
Davide
Hi Davide, great looking jacket. What is your definition of this type of shoulder? Ive heard being called Pagoda, Pitched... (Im sure theres a lot more). How do you get such a strong rope of the sleeve head? Im guessing you have to make your own sleeve head wadding and cut extra fullness in the crown, and it has to be sewn in by hand. thanks
ReplyDeleteHi Brendan,
ReplyDeleteI do cut the sleeve purposefully to create that raised/roped sleeve head shape, but only need to use the normal sleeve head roll with the canvas strip on the bias inside. On some occasions it might be necessary, depending on the type of cloth, to add an additional piece of soft canvas on the bias to the front and back (not the top) if I feel it needs it.
I don't have a name for the shape of the shoulder I try to create, perhaps I should, it might help make describing it a lot easier: The idea is to have a close natural shape from the neck to the centre of the shoulder, then to subtly lift the ends to give a sharper finish, which is accentuated by the roped sleeve head. I like the look of using the contrast between the soft and the structured to create something distinctive.
From a fitting point of view, I think it helps control the drape at the back, whilst helping to focus the prominence of the shoulder forward. This eliminates tightness across the top of the shoulder (by which I mean it follows the natural curvature of the shoulder leading forward and up to the end of the shoulder bone) so it should in theory, improve comfort and movement too.
Who knows...?