'House Style' - Form Follows Function: Creating Style From Cutting & Handcraft Tailoring, 2014
Cutting is primarily a technical discipline. But it is important to be imaginative, able to use the rules and systems you are taught and pick up from experience, to create beauty out of something that is essentially functional.
Thanks CSH, I would love to "knock up a concave jobbie", but no customer as yet has asked me to really go that far! It sometimes comes up in the initial conversation, especially if I am wearing my Black DB suit. But, to be frank, most people consider it to be, at best, a limiting look. Many consider it dated... or worse, pure pantomime! I suppose my normal shoulder line has a delicate nod towards that style, as I have tried to describe in the past. The padding I use is hand made, not controlled by a generic shoulder pad. This creates a close natural fit from the collar, feeling the cloth on the body around the neck. The pads, only at the ends, lift the shoulder line to reflect the rolling forward of the shoulder bone and, in turn, insures a clean drape at the back. Fucking Hell, it's difficult to explain in words, I hope the photos on various posts on this site describe it better! That's as far as most customers wish to take it; in order to keep that balance in bespoke tailoring, between distinctive styling and longevity. You are welcome to come visit our workshop and make the order and I'll promise we'll go to town on it! Yours, Davide
Superb as usual. If you could just knock up a concave shoulder jobbie...
ReplyDelete- CSH
Thanks CSH,
ReplyDeleteI would love to "knock up a concave jobbie", but no customer as yet has asked me to really go that far!
It sometimes comes up in the initial conversation, especially if I am wearing my Black DB suit. But, to be frank, most people consider it to be, at best, a limiting look. Many consider it dated... or worse, pure pantomime!
I suppose my normal shoulder line has a delicate nod towards that style, as I have tried to describe in the past. The padding I use is hand made, not controlled by a generic shoulder pad. This creates a close natural fit from the collar, feeling the cloth on the body around the neck. The pads, only at the ends, lift the shoulder line to reflect the rolling forward of the shoulder bone and, in turn, insures a clean drape at the back. Fucking Hell, it's difficult to explain in words, I hope the photos on various posts on this site describe it better!
That's as far as most customers wish to take it; in order to keep that balance in bespoke tailoring, between distinctive styling and longevity.
You are welcome to come visit our workshop and make the order and I'll promise we'll go to town on it!
Yours,
Davide
respect
ReplyDelete