Saturday, 12 March 2011

Coatmaking/Part I: Padded Canvas, Bridle & Edge Tape, Pocket Baste, 2011


  1. You seem to have taped the gorge in two places - what does this do?

  2. Dear RS,
    It might appear like that, but it's not quite what I've done! The lapels on this suit are quite bold and I felt it wise to give them a little extra support, hence continuing the edge tape down from the peak of the lapel to the Break-Line. As you have noticed, this runs close to the Gorge Dart.
    Every coat is unique and has to be approached with this in mind. When making up, the cloth, shape or design tells you what you must do in order for it to be happy when it's finished. I may not do this on every lapel I make.
    I am grateful for your observations and comments.
    Kind regards,

  3. Hi Davide, I'm new to your work, all I can say is WOW, it is its some of the best I've ever seen (even by Savile Row standards). The pad stitching in the lapel and chest is incredibly fine. Its truly outstanding work, and great to see that this level of work is still being done.

    I've noticed you cut through the canvas for the breast welt pocket; do you do this for all your coats? Its extra work and Im sure its the better method rather than cut just through the cloth.

  4. Hi Brendan,
    Yes, I cut through the chest and attach the breast pocket-bag to the inside of the canvas on every jacket. Since I make my own pockets (and don't pass it out to a Pocket-Maker) it is not that much extra work. The result is a cleaner looking chest from the outside and a stronger, more stable, pocket inside.